Dec 10th - THE BLOG IS FINISHED!!!!!
Hope everyone who reads the blog will enjoy it and comments (positive only please!) will be welcomed.
The PanAmericana Adventure Drive - Nov/Dec 2006 From the American/Mexican border to Panama - 7,000 miles through seven countries - Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama

Panama City skyline
We arrived at our hotel at about 2.30 pm and I had time to get the car washed and pressure cleaned underneath. The American customs do not like dirty cars entering the US. We emptied the car of all our personal belongings. With the help of Nigel and John who willingly agreed to take a hammock we had bought in Mexico back in their car to the UK, as ours would not be in the UK for another year, we cleared the car of everything we would not need on our tour of the US in March/April 2007.

Crossing the finishing line with John Brown waving the Panamanian flag
We then headed back to the hotel for a champagne reception with dancing by traditionally dressed Panamanian dancers. It was great fun to watch.

Panamanian dancers in traditional dress
The day ended with a finishing party held at the Miraflores locks on the Panama Canal.


The finishing party being held overlooking the Panama Canal at the Miraflores Locks
What a great place to end the Tour! We watched the giant ships being pulled by the railway engines on either side of the canal and being held by two more at the rear of the ship. The largest ships have only 6 inches room on either side and that is one of the reasons that a new canal and locks are being built over the next eight years, just to the north of the existing locks.
Tomorrow I take the car to the shipping agent and we fly out to Los Angeles in the evening. Another tour is over, our fourth with HERO. All have been great fun and enabled us to see places we had never dreamed we would see and places we never even knew existed!
Our thanks go to John & Joanna Brown and their team, to all the other participants who make these events such fun and finally to all the wonderful people we have met from Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama.

The first section of gravel road in Costa Rica, with the clouds descending before the heavy rain started.
Costa Rica really lived up to its billing as a tropical paradise and once across the border you immediately see that this is a much wealthier country than its neighbours to the north.
We drove across hills to Lake Arenal for a lunch stop at a German bakery. The food was OK but nothing special and did not live up to the description in the road book.

Members of the group having lunch at the German bakery near Lake Arenal. My car is on the right in the background.
As we left the bakery the weather changed. From the bright sunny weather we have experienced for virtually the whole tour we now had low clouds and heavy tropical rain.b We managed to see a small botanical gardens with a few butterflies, but the poor weather made the visit pretty unrewarding.
About 20 kms further on we came to the famous Hanging Bridges park in the rain forest. Even though the rain continued we had a great time walking through the forest via a succession of suspension bridges strung out across deep ravines. It was a wonderful walk, especially as you looked down onto the tree tops.

My navigator/co-driver enjoying the walk across one of the many suspension bridges through the Costa Rican rain forest.
By now the weather was really very poor, and with over 200 kms to go to San Jose we decided to skip the nearby hot springs and waterfalls.
A very slow drive on winding roads to the crowded city Cuidad Quesada made us decide on taking a different route to San Jose than shown in the road book. It turned out to be an inspired move as our route took us into San Jose on a six lane motorway as opposed to small roads through the outskirts of San Jose. With the aid of a mini-bus driver to help us negotiate some terrible traffic jams, we reached our hotel before nearly everyone else.
San Jose is not a particularly pretty city as most of the old colonial building have been destroyed in earthquakes that have hit this region. Still, our drive took us past some interesting places and buildings.
We have only one night in Costa Rica before we enter our final country of the tour, Panama.



The central square in Granada with its Christmas tree and the cathedral in the backgound.
The parade of the Virgin Mary started in the evening accompanied by loud fireworks and a brass band. Hundreds of people crowded the square to watch the Virgin pass on her way to the cathedral.
Granada is on the shores of lake Nicaragua and it was a shame that we never managed to see the lake as we had another early start tomorrow.

The unique staircase of hieroglyphs at Copan Ruinas
Below is a photo of one of the carved stelae that stand in the main plaza at Copan Ruinas. The detail on these stelae is simply incredible

I couldn't leave Copan Ruinas without mentioning the carved figurehead below. It was located just below the top of one of the prymaids and hidden away beneath some trees that were growing out of the pyramid. Looked at from the front it was another stone carving, but when I climbed down to look at in profile I thought it came alive.
We spent about an hour at the site and then drove for the next four hours to the capital, arriving around 2 pm. The countryside is very gree and the local inhabitants are predominantly very poor. Apprently Honduras is the second poorest country, after Nicaragua, in Central America. Literacy levels are low and many live in very basic conditions.
My afternoon hoping to see the capital was spoilt by a stomach bug I have picked up and the rest of the day was spent in bed!
Tomorrow we head for our one night in Nicaragua, driving via the capital Managua and then on to Lake Nicaragua and the very beautiful old town of Granada on its shore.

Hotel Casa Santo Domingo that was formerly a monastery
We had a chance to see the centre of the town, which reminded me of San Cristobel de las Casas in Mexico, with old colonial buildings, coloured houses and cobbled streets. The cathedral in the main square suffered terribly from an earthquake over 200 years ago and is now a fraction of its original size. The town is dominated by an extinct volcano which towers above it.

The central square in Antigua with Volcan de Agua shrouded in clouds.
We left around 8.30 am and headed up into the mountains on tarmac and then farm tracks. Beautiful countryside with everything wonderfully green. We rose to over 8,000 ft on rutted and muddy roads. Much of the journey was interrupted by road works as the road was being upgraded to tarmac. The roadworks lasted virtually to the border with Honduras.

Rolf & Ines Pritz followed by Eric & Lyn Woolley going through one of the many roadworks in the Guatemalan mountains.
Our impressions of Guatemala have been good all round, with everyone being very friendly and helpful, although the armed police, guards and soldiers, especially in the north of the country where there is a big drugs problem, caused us some concern.
We reached the border around 3 pm and then spent an hour an a half while two Honduran customs officials attempted to deal with the temporary imporation of our cars. It was pretty slow and one wonders what is done with all the paperwork!
Once through the border it was only 30 minutes to our hotel in Copan Ruinas. The town is famous for the Mayan site nearby. This is the southernmost city of the Mayans and we will see it tomorrow morning
Sunrise at Lake Atitlan, with one of the volcanoes that make the most magnificent backdrop to the lake
Volcan San Pedro
The highest of the volcanoes at Lake Atitlan, Volcan Atitlan, 3,537 metres
The hotel has fantastic gardens with a huge collection of roses from all over the world. Flowers abound and the gardens are a mass of colour. Everyone agreed this was a very special place.

The beautiful gardens of Hotel Atitlan
With such a short drive to Antigua, which used to be the capital of Guatemala until a devastating earthquake hit in the 18th century and it was moved to Guatemala City about 70 kms north, we could enjoy a late start. A short drive brought us to a view point high above the lake. After about 20 minutes of taking photos and video we drove on minor roads to Antigua. Again the scenery we encountered was really impressive with deep valleys and steep mountain passes.
We arrived in Antigua around 1 pm after having the car washed at a garage where we filled up with diesel. The price of fuel in Guatemala is very cheap at about half the price in the UK and each time I fill up the tank I appreciate how less I have to pay here.

One of the beautiful old colonial buidlings in the centre of Antigua

The ferry, powered by four outboard motors, taking our cars across the Rio de la Pasion
We were now driving on wonderful straight roads towards the Guatemalan mountains. Most of the rain forest has been cut down for agriculture and to see so much pristine forest destroyed is all rather depressing but when you see how poor the locals are you can understand why they need to turn the land over to food production.
Around lunchtime we hit the roadworks and what roadworks they were! They reminded me of the Chinese roadworks we experienced in 2004. The works went on for mile after mile. Extremely slow going with trucks carrying road materials blocking the way at virtually every turn. We then came across the first of two lengthy delays when the road was blocked whilst heavy machines were being used to move earth and grade the new road.
Queuing at the first road block due to roadworks
The total delay amounted to nearly two hours. Finally, we were on our way again and heading for our hotel on Lake Atitlan, famous for the volcanoes that are the magnificent backdrop to the lake.
The road wound its way through magnificent mountain scenery with one hairpin bend after another. How glad I was to have had my brakes seen to in Belize. Several cars suffered brake fade due to the extremely steep descent from above 7,000 ft to below 5,000 ft. I never realised how high the mountains were in Central America.
Sadly, the delays on the journey meant we arrived at Lake Aititlin after sunset and missed the fabulous views of the lake you see as you descend from the mountains. Still, we have a late start to tomorrow and we will be able to explore the area in the morning.
Photos for the past few days will be posted as soon as I re-establish e-mail contact through my mobile phone which does not work here in Guatemala.

A typical Belizean village house on stilts. Not much protection from a hurricane!
After another 50 kms we came to the capital of Belize, Belmopan. After hurricane Hattie struck Belize in 1961, killing more than 3,000 in Belize City, it was decided to move the capital inland. Belmopan is a small town with a few government building and anot much else. A strange out of the way capital. Whilst driving through the streets of we came across an accident involving a motorcycle and a cyclist. The cyclist was lying on the ground and at first sight appeared to be dead. One of the drivers in front of us who had stopped, jumped out of his car and with the help of the motorcycle rider picked up the injured man and literally threw him in the back of his pickup truck and drove off! We hope it was to the hospital but they way they ignored the man´s injuries we are far from certain!
Another 100 kms driving west out of Belize and we came to the border with Guatemala. Much form filling and going from one office to another enabled us to cross into Guatemala in about an hour. Once again we experienced the transition from one nation to another. This time we went from colonial Britain to Latin America. We could have been back in Mexico again with everyone coming from an Latin American Indian origin.
We had one place to see before we made our way to our hotel just outside the town of Flores and that was the Mayan site of Tikal. Tikal is the largest and most impressive of the Guatemalan Mayan sites. Giant pyramids dominate the site, with Temple 2 being the highest in the American continent.
The highest temples in Mezoamerica at Tikal
We spent about an hour exploring the site and while we were walking through the ruins we came across a group of coatimundi. Very pretty and tame animanls that weren't bothered by us at all.

A coatimundi scavenging amongst the ruins of Tikal
We left Tikal and drove the short distance to our hotel on the edge of Lago Peten. The Villa Maya hotel was a very special place indeed being beautifully situated in the middle of tropical vegetation. We had drinks on the patio overlooking the lake and feeding the freshwater crocodiles, whilst the sun set behind the lake. A great way to end the day.


One of our first impressions of Guatemala is how green the countryside is. Tomorrow we will be driving through the mountains of central Guatemala and their magnificent volcanoes

St.John's Cathedral in the centre of Belize City built by slaves in the 1812
The Belizean economy is going through tough times and it shows everywhere you go. Apparently there is high unemployment and on every street corner there are lots of men standing around. The great thing though was when we walked past them they were always very friendly. The mainstay of the economy is tourism and the cruise ships anchor offshore and the passengers take a tender to shore, where they are immediately directed to the Duty Free shopping plaza. Not the greatest place, with mainly diamond and T shirt shops!

Looking across the harbour in Belize City at the former British Governor's residence
We went back to the hotel and had a lovely swim in the hotel pool and then a snack lunch. Several phone calls to the garage to see if the car was ready and then they delivered it back to me. Everything has been done, with new front brake discs and pads. They even sorted out the handbrake that has been causing such a racket when I drive over bumpy roads. Now all I can hope is that the remainder of our trip is free from mechanical trouble.
Other members of the group have also taken the opportunity of this final rest day to get work done on their cars. Terence English had the oil changed on his Landcruiser. Bob Howells had the steering of his Landcruiser re-tracked, punctures repaired and a tyre replaced. Whilst Mike Taylor had the front discs re-skimmed on his Landcruiser. Strange that all the work being done is on the Toyotas!
Tomorrow we leave Belize for Guatemala. Our stay here has been far too short, but at least we have had the opportunity of seeing one of the smallest Central American countries.

Our first view of Belize and how different the country's buildings are from those in Mexico
About 75 kms south of the border we stopped to take a river boat trip along the New River to the Mayan site of Lamanai, deep in the rain forest. Belize is about 75% rain forest with 60% of that in national parks and under protection. The variety of wildlife here is huge. Every conceivable tropical bird, howler monkeys and jaguars.

Speeding up the New River, Belize to the Mayan ruins at Lamanai
Our boat ride, at high speed, up the New River took about 50 minutes. On the way we went past one of the Menonite (German origin) communities of Belize. Very similar to the Ahmish in the US, these groups live a very simple farming life and do not use modern conveniences such as cars, radios or TV's.
The guides had laid on a great lunch for us all, which we had at the boat station at Lamanai and then we took the walk into the rain forest to see the Mayan ruins. Some of these ruins are over 2,500 years old and hidden deep in the forest are very impressive. With others, I climbed to the top of the highest pyramid, some 75 metres high. The view over the forest from the top was wonderful.


The cenote at Chichen Itza with vines hanging from the cavern entrance all the way to the water below
We made the decision to skip some of the other cenotes that are scattered about the Yucatan peninsular and head for the Caribbean coast on the eastern shores of the peninsular at Tulum. Tulum is famous for the Mayan town ooverlooking the Caribbean. It is a late period Mayan town dating from the 12th century. The castillo, which is very well preserved overlooks the sea and you can see many fine Mayan carvings on the the buildings.

The well preserved Mayan castillo at Tulum overlooking the Caribbean
A short drive up the coast to our resort hotel meant we arrived around 1.30pm which gave us time to have a buffet lunch and then a swim in the wonderfully warm azure blue Caribbean waters.

Panama hats for sale in Becal, Yucatan.
The photo below shows the jipijapa palm fronds being bleached and dried in the sun.
The jipijapa palm fronds hanging out to dry.
We then drove to the regional capital of Yucatan, Merida, where the oldest cathedral in the Americas is located. It was built between 1561 and 1598 using stone from Mayan ruins.
After our drive out of Merida we took the autopista heading due east to Chichen Itza. The Mayan city at Chichen Itza spreads over four square miles and is dominated by the giant pyramid, Kukulkhan. There are so many fine buildings it is diffult to describe them all, but the photos below show some of the most famous.
Chichen Itza - Temple of the Warriors
Chichen Itza - The Pyramid Kukulkan
Chichen Itza - The 365 steps on the Pyramid Kukulkan
Chichen Itza - The astronomical observatory
Chichen Itza - The astronomical observatory illuminated by the setting sun
Tomorrow we head for the Caribbean coast of Yucatan for our last night in Mexico.
The Mayan ruins at Palenque



The central square in San Cristobal de las Casas, surrounding by beautiful white colonial buildings.
The magnificent cathedral in the centre of San Cristobal de las Casas
Our drive to Palenque was through wonderful mountain country. Mostly above 5,000 feet with pine forests and alpine meadows. As we neared Palenque we dropped to 2,000 feet and we entered the tropical rain forests of southern Mexico. Such a change in so short a distance. Lovely lush vegetation with palms, vines and exotic flowers and fruits.
We stopped at the Agua Azul waterfalls which are a popular tourist attraction and this is where I took the photo below.
Agua Azule waterfalls near Palenque in Chiapas state
We had hoped to see the Mayan ruins near Palenque but we arrived too late. We will see them first thing tomorrow morning.
Finally, I tried to have my brakes fixed at a mechanics workshop in Palenque but to no avail. They didn't have the right tools to do the work so it will have to wait until Belize City.
Wheels off!
Mechanics in Palenque looking at my front discs in an attempt to stop the brakes juddering.
Bob Howells and my navigator trying to blend in with the locals!
I'll report on the the Mayan ruins of Palenque tomorrow. From there we head for Campeche on the Gulf of Mexico coast and then just three more nights in Mexico.
The de Hullu family receiving emergency diesel supplies from Rolf & Ines Pritz
Standing on the hotel terrace overlooking the bay
Acapulco Bay
The drive along the coast was very pleasant with lush green tropical vegetation.
After driving for nearly five hours we stopped for a fish lunch on the beach at Puerto Escondido. Already there were John Brown, Mike Johnston and Roger & Sarah Lucas. Mark & Olpha Gibbon then turned up and I had the opportunity to thank Mark again for his generosity.

The fish restaurant at Puerto Escondido, with Do & Els Meeus and Mark & Olpha Gibbon
After lunch a two hour drive brought us to tonight's hotel in Huatluco. A quick dip in the very warm sea and then an evening meal on the beach. A great way to end the day.
The view from our bedroom at the Camino Real Hotel of Bahia de Puerto Marquez
Beneath the Pyramid of the Sun, the third largest pyramid in the world.
The city was started in 100BC and deserted in the 8th century. The inhabitants built a very structured and well designed city that was influenced by religious beliefs. At the northern end of the Avenue of the Dead stands the Pyramid to the Moon, a tiered structure that originally had a temple on the top. The larger of the two pyramids, dedicated to the Sun, stands halfway along the Avenue of the Dead on the eastern side of the roadway. We decided to climb the 248 steps to the top. The view over the ancient city is magnificent and hopefully the photos below will give some indication of the size and magnificence of Teotihuacan, as well as proving we made it to the top!
The great pyramid site of Teotihuacan, just north of Mexico City, with the Avenue of the Dead leading to the Pyramid of the Sun on the right and the Pyramid of the Moon in the far centre.
Standing on top of the Pyramid of the Sun, having climbed 248 steps at an altitude of 7.560 feet.
Early morning smog over Mexico City
Typical grid lock in the centre of Mexico City
Once out of the Centro Historico we made good progress and arrived at the house in 30 minutes. Frida Kahlo lived there until her death in the fifties. She was married to Diego Rivero, the famous Mexican painter and muralist. She also had an affair with Leo Trotsky and, after his assassination by one of Stalin´s assassins, Diego Rivera was held as a suspect. The house is an interesting time capsule. With many of both her and Diego´s personnel possessions on display.
The Blue House where artist Frida Kahlo lived and who was the wife of the famous Mexican artist, Diego Rivera
We had asked our cab driver to return in an hour, which much to our surprise he did! We then drove back into the centre and were dropped off at the central plaza, known locally as Tocolo. The cathedral dominates the plaza. It is a huge building with a wonderful alter of guilded gold. Much of Mexico City was severly dmaged in the great earthquake of 1985. The floors of the cathedral are all at different levels where the ground moved.
Back in the plaza there was much activity as this weekend is a national holiday celebrating Mexican Independence on Monday. There were groups of native Indians dancing to tomtom drums. Adding to the cacophony of noise was a live band belting out rock music for one of the national Radio Stations, 7DIAS.
Native Indian dancers in the 'Zocolo', Plaza de la Constitucion, with the Palace National in the background
We then walked back to our hotel past the Palace of Belles Artes and the Monument to Benito Juarez a Mexican patriot.
Mexico City - monument to Mexican patriot Benito Juarez
The day ended with a meal organised by HERO at a restuarant in the suburbs with a huge fountain in the grouns outside.

A Monarch butterfly resting on the ground
We set off with a heavy heart, leaving at 6.15am in the dark. As the dawn broke we made the decision to visit the first of the three sites as it was only 12 kms off the main road and also if there really were no butterflies we could at least try one of the two other sites.
Four hours of driving brought us to El Rosario and we drove the 12 kms up into the mountains. When we arrived at the large car park, ours was the only car there, which did not bode well.
We attempted to ask two locals if the butterflies were wintering and they said yes, but we were far from certain they understood us. We asked one of them if he would take us the 500 metres from the car park up to the park entrance. We were at 9,700ft and the high altitude made walking quite difficult. We paid the 35 pesos entrance fee and headed up the mountain with our guide, who was a very friendly young man and who continued to insist there were many butterflies further up the mountain. We started to see our first Monarchs after walking for about 30 minutes flying high up amongst the pine trees. As we climbed higher into the forest the numbers increased dramatically. They were all around us, thousands of them, but the most wonderful sight was to see so many flying high up in the trees and on into the sky above the tree tops. Literally millions of butterflies. We had to be careful not to step on them as we walked on. Now we were over 10,000 ft and the density of butterflies was increasing. We came upon an open meadow area, in beautiful sunlight, and in every direction we looked there were Monarchs. The numbers were simply unbelievable.

Millions of Monarchs flying in the sunshine.
Our guide told us that we had only another few hundred metres to walk before we would be where the Monarchs rest by hanging on to the branches of the pine trees. So, finally at 10,570 ft we arrived at a grove of trees where you could see branches bending under the weight of butterflies. A sight which almost defied belief. We spent about 30 minutes at this very special place, taking photos and video before heading back down the mountain. I hope the photos I took with my mobile phone, which I use to e-mail for posting to the web, show some of the amazing things we saw. I will post my digital camera photos when I return to the UK.

Pine tree branches weighed down by resting Monarchs
We returned to our car and drove back to the main road. As it was now 2pm we decided to drive directly to Mexico City so that we would arrive well before dark. We headed for the large town of Toluca about 60 kms from Mexico City and then took the autopista. We arrived in Mexico City at 4.30pm and had to endure the city rush hour traffic which produces the most horrendous traffic jams. We were lucky to miss the worst of the traffic but others who arrived later were held up for hours.
Our first impressions of the city are mostly positive with many modern buildings and a large amount of green open space. As we have three nights here we will be able to spend two days sigh seeing and will report more fully on the Mexican capital.
The statue of Pipila, high above Guanajuato
From the statue site there is a panroramic view of the city and I hope the picture below conveys how beautiful the city is.

The beautiful city of Guanajuato
A short funicular ride down to the city centre, next to the Teatro Juarez, was a bit of fun. It ended at one of the many road tunnels where I snapped the photo below.
One of the many tunnels that connect the road system of Guanajuato. Single carriageway, hewn out of solid rock
The Teatro Juarez is a magnificent building with a stunningly beautiful ceiling in the auditorium.
We moved on to the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Guanajuato. This is a lovely 17th century building, and whilst we were there a service was being held.
Teatro Juarez auditorium ceiling
The city is a very lively and friendly place. Hundreds of children were coming out of school as we caught a taxi back to the hotel.
A short drove in our car to see if the Brantz was working properly and a refuel before tomorrow's long drive to Mexico City and two mor rest days.
Hotel Quinta Real, Zacatecas, Mexico

A word or two on the driving standards here in Mexico. All the horror stories we were told about it being dangerous to drive in Mexico are simply untrue. The driving standards are very high indeed, with great courtesy shown by lorry drivers when you are trying pass them. They use the disconcerting code of letting you know that it is clear to pass, by flashing their offside indicators as though they are going to turn left in front of you! (In Mexico you drive on the right) Once you are used to this all you need to do is come up behind a truck and wait for them to flash you. They then move over as far as possible (the roads are generally quite narrow single lane highways) to make it easy for you to pass. Car and van drivers are similarly very courteous and noticibly non-agressive. Such a change from the UK!
This evening we are being taken for walking tour of this great city. I will report more on this tomorrow.
Sunrise over Copper Canyon
Repairing puncture on Do Meeus' car high up in the Sierra Madre
The Sierra Madre are a truly awesome mountain range and at every turn of the road we were presented with another incredible view. I hope the photos below give some idea of how beautiful the scenery is.
The stunningly beautiful Sierra Madre Mountains
The mountains on the way up the gravel track
The road, no track, was extremely tough going, even for an off-road vehicle like mine. We couldn't believe that Roger and Sarah Lucas in their 1970 Mercedes 280SL would be able to make it through.
Further up the road we came across one of the control cars that had broken down, with Kurt, the driver, attempting to repair a broken fuel line. The road certainly was taking its toll and even rugged 4x4's were not immune from breakdowns.
A short excursion to the viewing point overlooking Urique Canyon was definitely worthwhile, with wonderful views down into the canyon, about 5000ft below. Then more tough going on extremely bad roads, for the next 40kms, until we finally arrived at our hotel We were just in time to see the canyon before darkness set in.
After dark we were amazed to see the Lucas's arrive. How they negotiated these roads we will never know. Some 4 hours later the last car arrived - the GMC truck of Jim & Steve. They had suffered a breakdown which caused their delay. How they were able to navigate the mountain roads, where there are no signs, and in the dark, is truly remarkable.

Our cars loaded on the ferry from la Paz to Los Mochis
The ferry took 6 hours and we crossed in a flat calm sea, arriving in Topolobampo at 9.15pm. The drive, in the dark, to our hotel in Los Mochis took us 30 minutes, and was not helped by the continuing problems with the Brantz.
Tomorrow we head up into the Sierra Madre mountains, made famous in the Humphrey Bogart film, Treasure of the Sierra Madre. Our destination is Copper Canyon, one of the highlights of the tour.

One of the two 'Infiniti' pools with the microlite landing on the beach

Lazing in the 'Infiniti' pool looking out on the Sea of Cortez

The amazing entrance lobby of the Marquis hotel overlooking the Sea of Cortes
Every aspect of this Mexican run hotel is 5 star plus. Apparently the hotel is privately owned by a Mexican family who run one other hotel in Mexico. Somehow the feeling that this is not a chain hotel comes through all the time with the impeccable service provided by the hundreds of staff.
Following an 8am swim we had a great breakfast overlooking the sea. Bob & Thelma Howells joined us and we all agreed it was going to be difficult to leave this hotel tomorrow morning.
We then decided to drive into the small town of San Jose del Cabo to have the car washed. We found a couple of men washing cars in the back streets and for $5 dollars the car was cleaned. We then went into the centre of the town. It has a pretty central square surrounded by tourist shops. We spent half an hour shopping at a craft fair for toys for the grandchildren and some small items of jewellery as presents for the family. We left San Jose del Cabo and stopped at a super market to stock up on food for tomorrow's seven hour ferry crossing to the mainland, as we had been told the food on the ferry leaves a lot to be desired.
A short drive back to the hotel and lunch by the pool. The afternoon was spent sorting out our bags for the next five days until the next rest day. We have found it much easier to have a small bag to take into the hotel each night and leave the majority of our clothes in the car. This way we limit the amount we have to carry, unpack and then repack each night/morning.
This evening we are going, by coach, with the group into Cabo San Lucas for a meal that has been laid on by HERO.
I learnt from the hotel manageress that Cabo avoided the recent hurricanes but the route we take tomorrow up the eastern side of Baja will be through the towns hardest hit by the storms. We will leave around 7.30am for the 200kms drive to the ferry just north of La Paz.

One of the many giant cardones cacti behind our car in the Baja wilderness
Back on to tarmac and we still have over 450kms driving to do. Our route took us to the capital of Baja Sur, La Paz. With time getting on we did not drive into the centre but headed on south. About 100kms south of La Paz we crossed the Tropic of Cancer. More signs of hurricane damage were evident as we went through towns with roads damaged and trees blown down. Apparently, the main damage by the two hurricanes was on the south-east corner of Baja north of Cabo San Lucas, an area we will travel through on our way north to catch the ferry acroos to 'mainland' Mexico.
We finally arrived in Cabo San Lucas around 4pm. Cabo is a very American town and has many resort complexes and golf courses. A short drive past Cabo and we arrived at the Marquis Hotel. The hotel is truly a marvel of design with enormous swimming pools overlooking the Pacific. We are really looking forward to our two nights here and tomorrow's rest day.
Jingers Riley, our ace mechanic, outside the hotel at San Quintin laughing having had his breakfast roll stolen from his car by a stray dog!
The beautiful mission in the centre of San Ignacio
We had lunch with Paul and Jane Wignal and then as we were leaving, John Brown and Mike Johnson turned up. Prawn cocktails and lobster were the order of the day, washed down with a bottle of Mexican beer.
The next major town, 200 kms further south, was Santa Rosalia on the coats of the Sea of Cortes, an old mining town that was built by the French in the 19th century. In the centre of the town is a magnificent church designed by Eiffel and shipped out from the 1884 Paris Exhibition! The photo below shows the interior of the church.
Church designed by Eiffel and shipped to Santa Rosalia from Paris Exhibition in 1884
Standing in front of San Pedro Martir observatory housing 2 metre telescope

Our drive south then took us through some wonderful desert scenery, with cactus of all different varieties. Unique to this area is the ciros cactus, a weird tapering cactus that grows up to 8 metres in height. The day finished at our three star hotel on the coast just south of the town of San Quintin. Tomorrow is the longest day of the tour, over 800kms, so it will be a 6.30oam start for us.
Cars lining up to cross back into US from Mexico
No problems at all starting the cars and the drive through Tijuana was a thousand times easier than on Friday as it was Sunday and there was very little traffic.
The two hour drive south took us along Highway 1 which is the main road on Baja California. It runs mainly by the Pacific. Mile after mile of new condominium developments are being built. With prices from $44,000 you can see why the Americans are flocking to the area.
Sunrise over Ensenada with sport fishing boats in foreground
Pacific from our hotel in La Jolla, California


